This is a great lift kit, I love mine!
Scoutparts.com is introducing a brand new exclusive lift kit for Scout 80 / 800, 1961 to 1971. This new kit includes new springs, shocks, u-bolts and spring bushings. I was really glad to see this because no one else has had one for the early Scouts. The early Scouts had a very simple suspension , and it’s best to not lift them too much. 2 1/2 inches sounds about right to me.
I have always had a tough time locking and unlocking my doors. I have also had a funky time with my ignition key. It has not been so bad that it kept me from unlocking the doors but the funkyness always reminded me that I was driving a 37 year old rig. So I bought a new lock set
lock set for scout II
. Well…… I just replaced all the locks on my 72 scout II and WOW, what a big difference. The doors open like a new car and I can start it like a new car and also listen to the radio on accessory while waiting for the wife in the dentis’s parking lot. The change has really made me love driving my Scout even more.
I just talked to a guy from back east that has a Glassic. We have helped him keep it running for a long time. He needed a clutch fork and we helped him keep it on the road and sent him a brand new clutch fork. A Glassic is a Scout 800 frame and running gear, steering gear etc. and instead of a IH Scout body it has a fiber glass reproduction of a 1930 Model A Ford roadster. The Glassic was not made by IH the Frames and running gear was purchased from IH and then Glassic placed the body on the frame and Shipped to their west Palm Beach show room. To my knowledge , they were produced for a few years and some are still out there. In fact, the one in the photo is currently for sale for $11,500. A bit spendy but great shape.
Drill a 5/16 hole from the back of the handle for better centering
There are a few subtle details that will make your window regulator handle rebuild go smoothly. Once the handle falls off of the metal part of the regulator handle, loosen the hex head screw and remove the handle assembly.
If you have reached your threshold for mechanical projects, you can buy a rebuilt handle. If you are still interested follow these next steps:
Using a 5/16 drill bit, enlarge the hole in the handle end of the assembly, from the back side of the handle. The kit includes a new knob, but the inner shaft of that knob is of a larger OD than the original knob. Next you can fit the knob washer and press rivet together in the 5/16 hole. If you have a small arbor press, you can press the pieces together, but be careful to apply even pressure to avoid crushing the plastic inner shaft. You can also hit the head of the rivet with a rubber mallet, but do so using care and an even swing.
With the kit installed, it is good as new!
If you drive around enough in an old junker International, you are likely to get honked at from time to time. Let’s face it these trucks are pretty slow. Instead of nudging the plastic bumper of the offending honker, why not wait until the next red light and lay on your 12 volt air horn.
Why is everyone in such a hurry anyway? After speeding past me and honking, you will likely end up right in front of me at the next red light. Your Prius might be faster, but my Travelette sounds like an Amtrak train when I honk back!
International Harvester 1100C Travelette Pickup with air horn
One of my flashers went out on my 1972 Scout II. I have a lot of stuff bolted onto my dash like air conditioning and CB radio, etc. It really took me a few minutes to find my flashers. So I thought I would take a moment to let people know that there are actually two flashers on a Scout II. One is behind the fuse panel and the other is just to the right of the steering column. The one behind the fuse panel is for the emergencies and the regular turn signal flasher is just to the right of the steering column.
two prong flasher for Scout II
Desert Scout - No factory Trak-lok
Farmer Scout - Got lucky, has the factory Trak-lok
Mountain Pickup - SOA Dana 44 - Factory Powr-lok
Two of my three trucks turned out to have factory lockers installed.
The Desert Scout (1979 Scout II 50k original miles) did not have a locker. Line setting ticket shows axle code 14018, this refers to open carrier Dana 44 which was standard on a Scout II. So the desert Scout is going to get an upgrade to our Yukon locker kit. This upgrade will ensure traction from both rear wheels when climbing a dirt hill.
The Farmer Scout (1979 Scout II Terra 150k original miles) does have a factory Dana Trac-lok installed which is great. Line setting ticket for this truck shows 14028 which refers to the factory installed Trac-loc limited slip rear. With the Trac-lok installed there will be no reason to upgrade to the aftermarket locker for this Scout II. I will change the fluid and gasket on this axle.
The Mountain Pickup (1968 1100C Travelette 4×4) does have a factory installed Powr-lok differential. Line setting ticket for this truck shows the 14054 axle code referring to the Powr-lok equipped rear axle (14053 refers to the open carrier). The Powr-lok and Trak-lok are friction clutch systems, so when I change the oil I will add the correct additive.
I was filling up my 72 Scout II the other day and I started to smell even more gas than usual. I looked around and noticed that Fuel was leaking from up inside the body just about where the fuel filler spout is. It was not a big leak but big enough to make a puddle. when I got home I removed the spare tire and opened the access panel. It is pretty dirty and hard to see inside there. I could see well enough to know that the fuel was leaking just were I though, the back side of the fuel filler tube.
To replace it, I first drove to a car wash with a pressure washer and spent about $3 and jammed that wand up inside that rear quarter panel and washed the heck out of it. Then I let it dry for a couple of days and that made the job a lot easier. It was still a dirty job. While I was in there I also changed out all of the little rubber tubes that distribute the fuel vapor from the tank to the 
vapor collector. After looking at the old broken filler tube, it looks like letting the gas spout hang from the fuel filler tube was the cause. 
I have a 1975 Scout II and my horn stopped working. Of course I started investigating at the horn button. I finally discovered that the horn button was fine and It was grounding the horn relay circuit (found under the hood). Then I found out that the horn relay was working fine too. So, I assumed that the horn had gone bad. I did not check for voltage at the horn, because it was behind the drivers side head light. (I am sooo lazy some times.) I ordered a new horn and waited a few days for it to arrive.
It arrived, I grabbed one beer because every body knows this is a one beer job. I removed the head light and found that there was nothing wrong with the horn. The wire that connected to the horn had worked it’s way loose.
There I was, ready for a horn party and nothing needing installation. I installed the new horn anyway, now I have two!! (it is only a little louder)
I was having problems with my fuel gauge on my 1975 Scout II. It was only reading 1/4 when I knew the tank was full. Sometimes it would not read anything at all. My first thought was that I needed a new fuel sender. After replacing the fuel sender, It still was reading 1/4, when I knew it was full and often reading empty. So I thought that the gauge was bad, so I looked around and found a used gauge and swapped it. Same thing,… not reading correctly or not at all. Next I checked the circuit that measures the fuel level and that was about right.
After much hand ringing and thought, I focused on the voltage regulator. It is located on a seemingly unrelated gauge. On the back of the oil/temp gauge is a small electrical box, it supplies circuit protection and constant amount of voltage for all the gauges. if it is not putting out this “clean voltage” they may or may not display a reading. I could use a used regulator
New voltage regulator fixed my fuel gauge
but I decided against that because I might have the same problem again in a year or two. So I replaced it with a new model that fixed the problem. It really was easy to do and I did it myself. Now my gauge reads reliably but only to 3/4 when I know it is full. The last quarter turns out to be corrosion in my wiring harness and connectors. I am now working to clean all the contacts in my connectors to remove the tiny little bits of corrosion that are inhibiting continuity to give me a full reading.
It has been a long road but I will keep at it until it is perfect.
